Muir Woods National Monument

Tim Murphy
Jul 6
9 min read

Updated: Jul 7

Muir Woods National Monument preserves one of the last remaining old-growth redwood forests in the United States. While redwoods once thrived across the Northern Hemisphere some 240 million years ago, their native range has since shrunk to specific "goldilocks" environments along the Pacific coast. Only two redwood species remain indigenous to the United States: the coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), found in northern California and southern Oregon, and the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum), located in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

Coast redwoods are the tallest living organisms on Earth, often exceeding three hundred feet in height, with some mature specimens dating back more than two thousand years. Their remarkable resilience is largely attributable to their thick, highly tannic bark, which provides protection against insects and fungal disease. Furthermore, the bark’s low resin content makes redwoods more fire resistant.

Despite their natural durability, human activities have severely impacted these ancient forests. Less than five percent of old-growth redwoods persist today, primarily due to excessive logging and development. In this context, Muir Woods serves as a symbol of natural conservation, protecting these magnificent trees and their intricate ecosystems for posterity.

The land encompassing Muir Woods and broader Marin County, California, was originally occupied by the Coast Miwok people. For over ten thousand years, this seminomadic tribe utilized the redwood forests for hunting, foraging, and ceremonial purposes. When Spanish colonizers arrived during the late 18^th century, many Coast Miwok were forcibly displaced from their ancestral homelands and relocated to mission communities. There, they were subjected to forced labor and systematically indoctrinated into Western ideologies and Christianity. Tragically, by 1840, the Coast Miwok population had declined by nearly ninety percent, primarily due to the catastrophic impacts of European disease, starvation, and brutal working conditions.

The California Gold Rush (1848–1855) dramatically transformed San Francisco from a modest settlement into a burgeoning port city. This rapid population growth spurred intensive land speculation across the region, including Marin County. In 1855, Samuel R. Throckmorton, a prominent San Francisco attorney and real estate tycoon, acquired the 19,752-acre Mexican land grant known as Rancho Sausalito. While a significant portion of this vast property was subsequently leased to local dairy farmers, Throckmorton strategically reserved "Redwood Canyon"—the future site of Muir Woods—as his private hunting grounds. This deliberate preservation for personal use effectively spared the old-growth forest from the widespread development that characterized San Francisco’s expansion during the mid-to-late 19^th century.

When Throckmorton died in 1883, his extensive and heavily indebted estate was bequeathed to his only surviving child, Susanna. Confronted with substantial financial burdens, Susanna ultimately sold Rancho Sausalito to the Tamalpais Land and Water Company in 1889. The company gradually subdivided the land into agricultural and residential parcels, but retained Redwood Canyon as a private hunting preserve for the Tamalpais Sportsman’s Association.

In 1896, recreational tourism across southern Marin County boomed following the completion of the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway. Famously dubbed the “Crookedest Railroad in the World,” this engineering marvel scaled the summit of Mount Tamalpais and offered unparalleled views of the landscape below, including Redwood Canyon. The railway's impact was further complemented by broader infrastructural advancements and residential developments in the adjacent Mill Valley. Collectively, these improvements transformed the region into a premier destination for day-trippers and nature enthusiasts.

The burgeoning recreational appeal of Redwood Canyon faced an existential threat in January 1904 when the North Coast Water Company obtained water rights for Redwood Creek. Driven by San Francisco's increasing demand for potable water, the company planned to construct a reservoir within the canyon, a project that would have irreparably damaged the fragile old-growth ecosystem. The imminent danger facing this beloved natural attraction galvanized local conservation efforts. That spring, the California Club—an influential women's organization co-founded by prominent activist Laura Lyon White—swiftly launched a public fundraising campaign to "Save Sequoia Canyon." Their ambitious goals included raising $80,000, purchasing the redwood forest, and securing its designation as a national park. Despite widespread public support, the campaign ultimately fell short of its financial objective.

However, a new champion emerged for the redwoods’ preservation. In 1905, Lovell White, Laura's husband and President of the Tamalpais Land and Water Company, successfully persuaded William Kent—a wealthy landowner and ardent local conservationist—to purchase the threatened 612-acre tract for $45,000. Kent envisioned Redwood Canyon as a free public park and dedicated his ensuing years strategizing its development, prioritizing accessibility while preserving natural integrity.

To realize this vision, Kent initiated substantial infrastructural improvements. He refined road networks leading to the canyon, established a comprehensive system of footpaths throughout the grove, and oversaw the installation of essential visitor amenities—all meticulously integrated into the rustic landscape. Kent’s on-site developments were further complemented in 1907 when the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway opened its gravity car branch line into Redwood Canyon.

On April 18, 1906, a 7.9-magnitude earthquake devastated San Francisco, leveling nearly eighty percent of the city. This catastrophe resulted in an estimated 3,000 deaths and displaced over 200,000 residents. In the earthquake's aftermath, the demand for lumber and a reliable water supply soared. The North Coast Water Company sought to exploit this crisis. In December 1907, the company filed a condemnation lawsuit with Marin County to acquire Redwood Canyon via eminent domain. Company leaders believed that the public, in their desperation to rebuild, would be more receptive to resource extraction than to natural conservation.

The proposed condemnation compelled Kent to take immediate action. Recognizing that federal proprietorship could effectively nullify the water company’s eminent domain claims, Kent contacted his close associate, Gifford Pinchot, Chief of the United States Forest Service (USFS) and key confidant of President Theodore Roosevelt. In his urgent communication, Kent formally offered to donate Redwood Canyon to the federal government. He articulated his desperate plea and unwavering motive, stating: "Condemnation and destruction of Redwood Canyon threatened by Water Company. Must have it accepted as National forest at once. Sole idea is to save trees for [the] public."

In addition to contacting Pinchot, Kent consulted his personal friend Frederick E. Olmsted, the Chief Inspector of the local USFS field office. Olmsted was the nephew of renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted—who is best known for designing New York City’s Central Park—and one of the first graduates from the Biltmore Forest School in Asheville, North Carolina. Through these discussions, a critical distinction emerged concerning federal land designations. Although national forests were protected, they were primarily managed under a "wise use" philosophy that permitted sustainable timber production, as outlined in the Forest Reserves Policy of 1905. This approach conflicted with Kent’s vision of absolute preservation. Olmsted redirected Kent to the recently ratified National Antiquities Act of 1906, which empowered the President to unilaterally designate federal lands as national monuments “for the purposes of preserving resources of prehistoric, historic, or scientific interest.”

On January 9, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt signed an executive order establishing Redwood Canyon as Muir Woods National Monument—the seventh such federal designation in American history. This act fulfilled William Kent's personal request to name the monument in honor of the celebrated conservationist John Muir, a decision that proved highly strategic. Although Muir lacked any direct association with Kent or Redwood Canyon, the use of his name instantly conferred national prestige upon the newly protected forest and strengthened its prospects for long-term preservation amidst the ongoing legal dispute.

The North Coast Water Company continued its condemnation campaign for nearly a year following the federal government’s acquisition of Muir Woods. In October 1908, company leaders orchestrated a four-day water shortage in nearby Mill Valley, ostensibly to illustrate the purported need for a reservoir in Redwood Canyon. However, this coercive tactic backfired when it was revealed that the company had deliberately shut off the water supply. This blatant attempt to leverage post-disaster vulnerability eroded public trust and ultimately undermined their legal claims.

Shortly after the establishment of Muir Woods National Monument, William Kent transitioned into national politics, embarking on a distinguished tenure in the U.S. House of Representatives from 1911 to 1917. While in Congress, Kent proved instrumental in conceptualizing, drafting, and endorsing the legislative framework that ultimately created the National Park Service (NPS) in 1916. Though steadfast in his civic duties, Kent maintained an unwavering commitment to Muir Woods’s conservation. He consistently provided guidance and oversight for the monument’s management until his death on March 13, 1928.

Following Kent’s passing, the day-to-day stewardship of Muir Woods formally transitioned to a National Park Service custodian. In 1930, J. Barton Herschler—a seasoned ranger from Yosemite National Park—assumed this role, inheriting a park deeply impacted by the severe economic throes of the Great Depression, a crisis similarly afflicting the nation at large. This era profoundly curtailed the ability of American families to engage in leisure and recreation, as many struggled to secure basic living essentials. Consequently, visitor traffic precipitously declined across all national parks and tourist destinations. Muir Woods, in particular, experienced a sharp reduction in attendance, falling from its peak of 103,500 visitors in 1928 to just under 40,000 by 1933.

Salvation arrived in the form of New Deal programming. Beginning in October 1933, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a cornerstone federal work relief agency, established Camp NM-3 near the Monument. This camp spearheaded extensive refurbishment projects for both Muir Woods and the adjacent Mount Tamalpais State Park. The CCC performed a wide array of tasks: grading and maintaining hiking trails, implementing crucial fire protection and flood control measures, and constructing durable new administrative buildings and visitor amenities. These tireless efforts continued through 1941, terminating when the United States entered World War II.

In 1945, with the surrender of Nazi Germany and Imperial Japan imminent, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt—a figure synonymous with Allied unity and wartime leadership—and other world leaders prepared to attend the United Nations Conference on International Organization (UNCIO) in San Francisco. Tragically, just thirteen days before the conference's scheduled opening on April 25, President Roosevelt suffered a massive cerebral hemorrhage and died. Despite this immense loss, the UNCIO conference continued as planned.

During the proceedings, Pedro Leão Velloso, Brazil’s foreign minister and UNCIO chairman, proposed to memorialize the late American president within the solemnity of Muir Woods. The delegates unanimously agreed. On May 19. 1945, more than 500 representatives from 46 nations converged upon Muir Woods’s iconic Cathedral Grove to attend the commemorative ceremony. This poignant assembly amidst ancient redwoods powerfully underscored the global recognition of Roosevelt's immense stature and his ideological contributions towards post-war peace. Ultimately, the San Francisco Conference of 1945 successfully established the United Nations, thus fulfilling Roosevelt’s vision for international diplomacy.

A sanctuary of ecological diversity, Muir Woods National Monument remains an immensely popular tourist destination, captivating nearly one million visitors each year. To prevent overcrowding and ecological compromise, the National Park Service has implemented mandatory advance reservations for all prospective visitors. It is highly recommended to purchase tickets several weeks ahead of time, especially during peak seasons.

Muir Woods offers a variety of hiking experiences, from gentle strolls through the ancient redwoods to more challenging ascents into Mount Tamalpais State Park. For the most immersive experience in the old-growth forest, follow the two-mile loop that connects the Redwood Creek (Main) Trail with the Hillside Trail.

Beginning at the Muir Woods Arch, follow the boardwalk past the Visitor Center to a giant redwood cross-section. This particular specimen, which fell naturally in 1930, was revealed to be an astonishing 1,021 years old—a tangible glimpse into centuries of natural history. Further down the trail is Founder’s Grove, one of the most photographed sections of the park. Here, redwoods grow in an exceptionally dense stand and tower dramatically over the forest floor.

Continuing across Bridge Two, visitors enter Bohemian Grove. This section is named after the San Francisco Bohemian Club—a prominent social organization of actors, musicians, and writers—who once harbored ambitious plans for Redwood Canyon. In September 1892, the club staged its annual midsummer encampment here, reveling for two weeks amidst the towering redwoods. They even erected a 43-foot plaster Buddha statue within the forest. However, the Bohemian Club eventually decided that Redwood Canyon did not suit their long-term needs for a permanent retreat. Nevertheless, Bohemian Grove remains a fascinating area of redwood specimens. Several trees within this stand have been hollowed out from naturally-occurring forest fires, creating cavities large enough to step inside.

The main trail’s northern end passes through Cathedral Grove, home to some of the park’s oldest and tallest trees. It is a setting of quite refuge, protected to preserve its natural soundscape and delicate ecosystem. Within this arborous basilica, visitors often experience an unparalleled sense of tranquility and a deep (almost spiritual) connection to nature.

The Redwood Creek Trail extends to Bridge Four, where it connects to the Hillside Trail. This narrower footpath provides visitors with an elevated vantage point, revealing a broader, more encompassing view of the majestic redwood ecosystem below. The Hillside Trail eventually reconnects with the main trail system at Bridge Two. From this point, it is a short walk back to the Visitor Center.

Muir Woods National Monument stands as a powerful testament to both historical foresight and enduring ecological significance. Its very establishment in 1908—the result of ardent conservation activism and public philanthropy— marked a pivotal moment in American environmental history, unequivocally demonstrating the profound value placed on preserving natural landscapes. Ecologically, Muir Woods serves as a vital sanctuary for irreplaceable old-growth coast redwood forests, their intricate complex ecosystems, and the critical habitats they provide. More than just a collection of trees, Muir Woods embodies humanity’s ongoing role and responsibility in safeguarding Earth’s ecological heritage for generations to come.